Stack and reach calculator
Two frames rarely differ by one number. Enter the bike you ride with its cockpit, then the frame you are comparing, and see which stem and spacers would put your hands back where they are now.
To sit the same on the other frame
100 mm -6° stem, 0 mm spacers
That lands within 3 mm of where your hands are now, with parts any shop stocks. Spacers can be added but never taken below the head tube, so a frame with less stack is easier to fix than one with more.
Paste a whole geometry chart and compare every size at once.
What stack and reach actually are
Both are measured from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube: stack is the vertical distance, reach the horizontal one. They describe the frame without any parts attached, which is why they compare across brands when a size label cannot. They do not tell you where your hands go — the headset cap, spacers, stem and handlebar all sit on top of that point.
Stack is the harder one to fix
Reach is adjustable in both directions with stem length. Stack is not: you can add spacers to raise the bar, but you cannot go below the head tube, and most forks cap the spacer stack around 30–40 mm. A frame with slightly less stack than you need is a cheap fix; one with too much is not.
The two move together
Adding spacers pulls the bar back as well as up, because the steerer leans back; a longer stem pushes the bar forward and slightly up. So a taller, shorter frame can often be matched with a longer, lower stem — and the calculator searches for that combination rather than making you guess.
When the answer is "no"
If nothing ordinary reaches your position, the frame is the wrong size for you rather than a stem away from it. Stock stems run 70–120 mm; needing 140 mm or 50 mm to make a bike work is the clearest signal a geometry chart can give you before you buy.